Paolo Sartori 3/26/25 Paolo Sartori 3/26/25

Best Wildlife Photography Camera Settings

Discover the best wildlife photography camera settings for any camera! This guide covers shutter speed, aperture, ISO, autofocus, and pro tips to capture stunning wildlife shots.

Wildlife photography is all about capturing those fleeting, magical moments. But here’s the thing: no matter how incredible the moment is, if your camera settings aren’t dialed in correctly, you’ll end up with a blurry, noisy, or poorly exposed image. And that? That’s the fastest way to turn an epic shot into a missed opportunity.

I’ve been there. Early on, I remember photographing a leopard at sunrise in a private reserve in Namibia. The golden light was perfect, but I was so caught up in the moment that I didn’t check my exposure dial. The result? An overexposed fur - and an unusable photo. Since then, I’ve learned that understanding exposure settings isn’t just technical jargon—it’s the key to nailing sharp, detailed wildlife shots every single time.

In my early days I’d find quite difficult to nail exposure, especially in high contrast and fast changing conditions.

At its core, exposure is controlled by three main settings: shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. These work together like a finely tuned engine, and knowing how to adjust them based on lighting conditions and animal behavior will make or break your shot.

Shutter speed determines how quickly your camera captures movement. A fast shutter speed (1/2000s or higher) freezes action, while a slow one introduces motion blur.
Aperture controls the depth of field—how much of your image is in focus. A wide aperture (f/2.8-f/5.6) isolates your subject beautifully, while a narrower aperture (f/8-f/11) keeps more of the scene sharp.
ISO affects brightness and noise. Modern cameras handle high ISOs well, but balancing it with the other settings is key to avoiding unnecessary grain.

In this quick video you will find a complete explanation of these concepts:

The trick is to adjust these settings dynamically. If the light changes or the animal moves, your settings should adapt instantly. That’s why knowing them inside and out is crucial—it lets you respond to the scene without fumbling through menus.

Best Shutter Speed for Wildlife Photography

Shutter speed can make or break a wildlife shot. Too slow, and you’ll get motion blur where you don’t want it. Too fast, and you might push your ISO too high, introducing noise. Finding that sweet spot takes practice, but once you get a feel for it, it becomes second nature. Let’s break it down based on different scenarios so you can confidently adjust on the fly.

Fast-Moving Subjects: Birds in Flight & Running Mammals

If you’ve ever tried capturing a bird mid-flight only to end up with a blurry mess, your shutter speed was probably too slow. For fast action, like birds in motion or cheetahs sprinting, you need a shutter speed of at least 1/3200s. Some birds—especially smaller, erratic ones like swallows—may even require 1/4000s or higher.

For fast subjects like birds you need to go as high as 1/4000s to get a sharp image.

For running mammals like wolves, deer, or big cats, 1/2000s is a good baseline. It freezes their motion while keeping enough detail sharp. I’ve learned this the hard way—one time in Namibia, I had a cheetah dashing past my Land Cruiser, and my shutter was at 1/800s. The result? A series of blurry spots instead of a crisp predator in action. Lesson learned.

Cheetah sprinting in Etosha NP, Namibia.

Walking Animals & Slower Movements

Not everything in wildlife photography is about freezing lightning-fast action. If an animal is walking or making slower movements—like a bear foraging or an elephant strolling—you can drop your shutter speed to around 1/500s to 1/1000s. This allows you to lower your ISO and get a cleaner image while still maintaining sharpness.

For example, on a recent shoot in Zambia I photographed a kudu moving through the golden grass in the fading evening light at 1/320s. It kept it sharp while allowing for a balanced exposure. Had I gone with 1/3200s, I would have needed to crank up my ISO, adding unnecessary noise.

Kudu at dusk in South Luangwa NP, Zambia.

When to Go Lower: Stationary Subjects

When an animal is completely still—like a sleeping lion, a perched owl, or a resting bear—you can go much slower, sometimes even down to 1/100s or lower. But there’s a catch: the longer your focal length, the faster your shutter speed should be to counteract camera shake.

With a 600mm lens, you generally don’t want to go below 1/600s unless you’re using a tripod or have impeccable hand-holding skills. With shorter focal lengths, like a 100mm, you can push it lower, even 1/50s in some cases.

Balancing Shutter Speed with ISO and Aperture

Wildlife photography is all about balancing the exposure triangle. If you need a fast shutter speed but don’t have much light, you have two choices: open up your aperture or raise your ISO.

Aperture: A wide aperture (like f/2.8 or f/4) lets in more light, allowing you to use a higher shutter speed without cranking up the ISO too much. This is great for isolating your subject and blurring the background.
ISO: Sometimes, you have no choice but to increase your ISO. Modern cameras handle ISO 3200 or even 6400quite well, so don’t be afraid to push it when needed. It’s better to have a slightly noisy shot than a blurry one.

A simple rule of thumb: if you’re shooting in low light and your shutter speed is too slow, first open up your aperture. If that’s maxed out, then bump up the ISO.

Wide Apertures (f/2.8 – f/5.6) for Isolation and Bokeh

Most of the time, especially when shooting wildlife portraits, you want to use a wide aperture (low f-number). Something like f/2.8 or f/4 helps separate the subject from the background, giving that creamy bokeh effect photographers love. This is crucial when shooting in dense environments—forests, tall grass, or busy savannahs—where you want to blur out distractions.

However, be mindful of your depth of field. When shooting a close-up of an eagle at 600mm and f/4, you might end up with only the eye in focus. That’s where fine-tuning comes in—f/5.6 or f/8 can be a sweet spot for maintaining sharpness while still getting a nice blur.

Narrow Apertures (f/8 – f/11) for Group Shots & Environmental Portraits

If you're capturing an animal in its environment you’ll want more depth of field. This is where f/8 to f/11 comes in handy. These settings keep both the animal and part of the background in focus, giving the viewer a sense of place without overwhelming the subject.

Narrower apertures are also useful when photographing multiple animals in the same frame. If you’re shooting a pack of wolves or a group of lions resting together, a narrower aperture ensures all of them stay in focus, rather than just the closest one.

I shot this image at f11 to make sure both the elephant and the mopane trees were in focus.

Best ISO Settings for Wildlife Photography

Ah, ISO - the setting that used to haunt photographers back in the day. If you started out in the early digital era you probably remember cringing at the thought of pushing ISO past 800. Grainy, muddy images were the norm. But today? Modern cameras have changed the game. ISO isn't the enemy anymore; it’s a powerful tool that lets us freeze fast-moving wildlife, shoot in low light, and balance our exposure without worry.

How High Can You Go? Depends on Your Camera

The good news? Most modern cameras can handle high ISO settings really well. But the exact limits depend on what you're shooting with.

Entry-level and mid-range cameras: If you're using a crop-sensor body (like a Canon R7, Nikon D7500, or Sony A6700), you’ll probably get clean results up to ISO 3200 or 6400. Beyond that, noise starts creeping in, but it’s still usable with some noise reduction in post.
High-end full-frame cameras: If you’re shooting with a flagship model like the Canon R1, Nikon Z9, or Sony A1 II you can comfortably push ISO 12,800 or even 20,000 and still get solid files with plenty of detail. With my R3 I can sometimes go as far as 51.200 and still get usable files.
High-resolution cameras (like the Canon R5 or Sony A7R V): These pack a ton of megapixels, which means noise becomes a bit more noticeable. Still, ISO 12,800 is totally usable—especially if you expose correctly and apply noise reduction wisely.

I shot this image on Canon R3 at ISO 20.000

How to Set ISO Based on Your Shutter Speed & Aperture

ISO is all about balancing your exposure triangle. The trick is knowing when to raise it.

Fast-moving subjects (birds in flight, running predators) → You need a high shutter speed (1/2000s or more), which means your ISO will have to compensate, especially in lower light.
Blue hour shots → At dusk or dawn you’ll need to bump ISO up, often past ISO 3200–6400, to keep a usable shutter speed.
Low-light wildlife (forests, nocturnal animals) → This is where full-frame cameras shine. Don’t be afraid to push ISO 6400, 12,800, or higher if needed. Noise is better than motion blur.

Using Auto ISO with Manual Limits

One of the best ways to handle ISO efficiently is by using Auto ISO with manual limits. This lets you focus on adjusting your shutter speed and aperture while letting the camera tweak ISO automatically—within a range you’re comfortable with.

Set a minimum shutter speed (e.g., 1/1000s for wildlife, 1/2500s for birds in flight).
Set a max ISO limit based on your camera’s capabilities (e.g., ISO 6400 for entry-level cameras, ISO 12,800 or more for full-frame models).
Use exposure compensation to fine-tune brightness when needed.

This way, you get the best balance of exposure without worrying about underexposed or blurry shots.

If you want to understand ISO more in depth I suggest you to check this video:

Autofocus Settings for Wildlife Photography

You can have the best camera and the sharpest lens, but if your autofocus settings aren’t dialed in, you’ll end up with a blurry mess instead of a crisp, tack-sharp image of that once-in-a-lifetime moment. Over the years, I’ve tested different autofocus modes in all sorts of conditions—tracking cheetahs at full sprint in Namibia, following an eagle in flight over Patagonia and locking focus on a leopard hidden in the dense brush of South Luangwa. Each scenario requires a slightly different approach, so let’s break it down.

AF-C (Continuous Autofocus) vs. AF-S (Single Autofocus)

One of the biggest mistakes I made early on was relying too much on AF-S (Single Autofocus) for moving subjects. AF-S locks focus on a subject when you half-press the shutter, but if the animal moves even slightly, the focus doesn’t adjust. This works fine for completely stationary animals—like a lion lounging in the shade or an owl perched on a branch—but for anything moving, it’s a disaster. I once missed an entire sequence of a fox hunting in the snow because my camera was stuck in AF-S. Lesson learned.

For wildlife, AF-C (Continuous Autofocus or Servo AF) is the way to go 99% of the time. When set to AF-C your camera continually adjusts focus as long as you keep the shutter half-pressed (or use back-button focus, but we’ll get to that in a bit). This is essential for tracking animals in motion, whether it’s a bird taking off, a wolf running through the forest, or a bear fishing in a river. If you shoot wildlife, just leave your camera in AF-C by default - you won’t regret it.

Best Focus Modes for Wildlife Photography

Single Point AF → For Stationary Animals

If an animal is still, Single Point AF is your best bet. This lets you place the autofocus point exactly where you want - usually on the animal’s eye. I use this when photographing an animal at rest, like a leopard in a tree or a puffin standing on a cliff. The key is to be precise with your focus point. Even slight misplacement - like locking onto the nose instead of the eye—can make your image feel soft.

Dynamic AF / Tracking AF → For Fast-Moving Subjects

For wildlife on the move, Dynamic AF (Nikon) or Tracking AF (Canon/Sony) is a lifesaver. Unlike Single Point AF, which stays fixed, Dynamic AF allows the camera to use nearby focus points if the subject moves slightly. I use this when tracking running, flying, or swimming animals. When a lion charges, or a bird suddenly shifts direction mid-flight, this setting gives you a much better chance of keeping focus locked.

Eye-Detection AF → When Available for Animal Subjects

Not all cameras have Animal Eye AF, but if yours does, use it! Modern mirrorless cameras from Sony, Canon, and Nikon have AI-powered Eye-Detection AF for animals and it’s a game-changer. Instead of worrying about manually selecting the focus point, the camera automatically locks onto the eye, even if the animal moves slightly. This works best in good light and with clear visibility of the eye, but when it works, it’s pure magic.

How to Set Up Back-Button Focus for Better Control

If you haven’t tried Back-Button Focus (BBF) yet, do it. This technique separates autofocus from the shutter button, giving you better control. Instead of half-pressing the shutter to focus, you assign autofocus to a button on the back of the camera—usually the AF-ON button. This lets you:

✔️ Hold focus on a subject even if you recompose the shot
✔️ Prevent accidental refocusing when pressing the shutter
✔️ Quickly switch between AF-C and manual focus by simply releasing the button

Setting it up varies by camera, but here’s the basic process:

Go to your custom settings menu and find the "AF Activation" or "Shutter/AF-ON" setting.
Disable autofocus from the shutter button (this stops AF from activating when you press the shutter).
Assign AF-ON button to autofocus activation.

Once you get used to BBF, you won’t go back. It’s especially useful for situations where you want to lock focus on an animal, recompose, and shoot without refocusing—perfect for framing wildlife creatively without losing sharpness.

Best Shooting Modes for Wildlife Photography

When you’re out in the field, trying to capture a perfectly sharp image of a lion mid-yawn or an eagle in flight, the last thing you want is for your camera settings to work against you. The shooting mode you choose can make or break your wildlife shots. Many beginners assume that Aperture Priority (Av or A mode) or Shutter Priority (Tv or S mode) are good choices, but both have major flaws when it comes to fast-moving wildlife. The best approach? Full Manual Mode with Auto ISO. Let’s break it down.

Why Aperture Priority Isn’t Ideal

Aperture Priority mode lets you control the aperture (f-stop) while the camera automatically adjusts the shutter speed to maintain proper exposure. In theory, this sounds great, especially if you want to control depth of field (DOF). For example, if you want to blur the background of a portrait-style shot of a cheetah, you might choose f/2.8 or f/4 and the camera will pick an appropriate shutter speed.

But here’s the problem: Wildlife is unpredictable. If a change in lighting conditions trigger your camera to suddenly drops the shutter speed too low, your fast-moving subject will be blurry. A running antelope or a flying bird requires a shutter speed of at least 1/2000s or faster, but in Aperture Priority mode, depending on the light, the camera might select 1/500s or lower, leaving you with motion blur. And sure, you can set a minimum shutter speed in some cameras, but it’s not a perfect solution - it still removes full control from you, which isn’t ideal for action photography.

Why Shutter Priority Falls Short

Shutter Priority mode flips the control - you select the shutter speed and the camera picks the aperture to balance exposure. This seems like a great idea for wildlife because you can lock in 1/2500s for birds in flight or 1/1000s for a walking elephant. No motion blur, right?

The problem is that you lose control over aperture, which is a huge issue for wildlife photography. The aperture dictates depth of field, which affects how much of your subject is in focus. If the camera decides to use f/16, you might get a busy, distracting background. If it picks f/2.8, your subject might not be entirely in focus—especially if it has long features like a bird’s beak or an animal’s horns.

You don’t want to leave aperture up to chance. That’s why Manual Mode is the best solution.

Why Manual Mode + Auto ISO is the Best

In Manual Mode, you take full control of both shutter speed and aperture, ensuring that neither changes unexpectedly.

Shutter speed: Set this based on your subject’s motion. Use 1/1000s for walking animals, 1/2000s–1/4000s for birds in flight, and 1/500s for slow-moving subjects.
Aperture: Choose based on how much of your subject you want in focus. Use f/4 or f/5.6 for isolating animals from the background and f/8–f/11 for groups or detailed shots.

But what about exposure? That’s where Auto ISO comes in.

How Auto ISO Works & Why It’s Essential

ISO controls the camera’s sensor sensitivity to light, and instead of manually adjusting it every time the light changes, Auto ISO allows the camera to do it for you while keeping your exposure balanced. This means you don’t have to worry about tweaking ISO while tracking a running cheetah or waiting for a leopard to emerge from the shadows.

Most modern cameras let you set a maximum ISO limit (e.g., ISO 6400 or 12,800) to prevent excessive noise.

With this setup, you retain control over motion sharpness (shutter speed) and depth of field (aperture), while allowing the camera to handle exposure adjustments automatically with ISO. It’s the best of both worlds.

When light is even through the frame evaluative (or matrix mode) works perfectly.

Using Manual Mode + Auto ISO for Exposure Control

One of the best tricks I’ve picked up over the years is using Manual mode with Auto ISO and controlling the exposure with exposure compensation. Here’s how it works:

In Manual mode you set your shutter speed (to freeze motion) and aperture (to control depth of field).
Auto ISO adjusts automatically based on the light conditions, so you’re not constantly fiddling with settings when an animal moves from sunlight to shade.
Exposure compensation (+/-EV) lets you override the camera’s automatic adjustments to brighten or darken the image as needed.

For example, if I’m photographing a dark-furred bear against a snowy background, the camera might underexpose the image because it sees all that bright snow. I’d dial in +1 or +2 EV to compensate. The opposite happens when shooting a bright white bird against a dark background—I’d reduce exposure compensation to avoid blowing out the highlights on the bird.

This method gives me full control while letting the camera handle the tricky, fast-changing lighting situations.

Daylight vs Cloudy WB → Adjusting for Warm or Cool Tones

While these days AUTO White Balance works for most situations, I often use specific white balance presets to keep colors consistent. Daylight WB (usually around 5200K) works well in bright sun, giving a natural, balanced look without overcompensating. But if I want to enhance warmth—like during sunrise or sunset—I switch to Cloudy WB (6000K–6500K). This makes golden tones pop without looking unnatural.

On the flip side, if I’m in snowy conditions (like photographing ibex in the Alps), I sometimes dial my WB slightly cooler to keep the whites crisp and prevent them from looking too warm. That’s the beauty of manual white balance - tiny tweaks can make a big difference.

Why Shooting in RAW Gives More Flexibility for Color Correction

Now, let’s talk RAW vs JPEG—because this is where color really comes into play.

When you shoot in RAW your camera captures all the data from the sensor without applying compression. This means if your white balance is slightly off, you can adjust it later in post-processing without any loss in quality. If you shoot in JPEG? You’re stuck with whatever WB the camera decided at the moment of capture.

Pros and Cons of RAW vs JPEG

If you're serious about wildlife photography, RAW is the way to go—especially for controlling white balance and color accuracy. The only real downside? You will need to spend time editing. But for me, that’s a small price to pay for perfect colors and more creative control.

Pro Tips for Adjusting Settings in the Field

Nature doesn’t wait for you to fiddle with your settings. The best moments happen in an instant and if you’re not prepared to adjust fast you’re going to miss the shot. Here’s how to stay ahead of the curve when conditions change in the field.

How to Quickly Adjust Settings Based on Changing Light

Light changes fast, especially at dawn and dusk. One moment, you’ve got perfect golden-hour glow, and the next, the sun dips behind a cloud, throwing your scene into shadow. If you’re not ready, you’ll either underexpose your shot or end up with a noisy mess from cranking ISO too late.

As we’ve seen ISO Auto with a max limit can save you when light changes mid-shot; you just have to keep an eye on your shutter speed and aperture, adjusting settings as light condition changes, and let the camera handle the rest.

Using Custom User Modes (C1, C2, C3 in Canon) for Quick Recall

Every wildlife photographer should be using custom user modes. If you’re not, you’re leaving speed on the table. Most modern cameras let you pre-program custom settings under C1, C2, and C3 (Canon) or U1, U2, U3 (Nikon). Think of these as instant presets for different scenarios.

For example, I use:

C1: Fast-moving wildlife (1/3200s, f/5.6, Auto ISO, Tracking Autofocus) – perfect for birds in flight or running predators.
C2: Low-light wildlife (1/200s, f/4, Auto ISO, Single Point Autofocus) – for dawn/dusk moments when every bit of light matters.
C3: General mammal subjects (1/800s, f/4, Auto ISO, Tracking Autofocus with eye detection) – for portraits of resting animals where sharpness is key.

With one flick of a dial I can instantly swap between settings, instead of frantically adjusting exposure, autofocus, or drive mode. It’s a lifesaver when the action shifts fast!

Burst Mode & Silent Shooting → Capturing Multiple Frames Discreetly

Wildlife rarely poses for you. That’s why burst mode is a must - but knowing when to use it is just as important. I shoot in continuous high (15+ fps) for fast action and I switch to silent burst (or electronic shutter) when dealing with skittish subjects. Some birds can react to the shutter sound, so silent mode helps get natural behavior instead of a startled reaction.

Important tip: Don’t just hold down the shutter and pray. Unless some real action is happening use short bursts of 3-5 shots to avoid filling your card with duplicates. Look for peak action—wings at full extension, an animal’s eyes perfectly sharp - and time your bursts accordingly.

Using a Tripod vs Handheld Techniques for Stabilization

Tripods are great but in fast-paced wildlife photography they can be kinda limiting. I almost only use a tripod when I’m shooting from a photographic hide.

For everything else, I prefer handheld shooting with proper technique:

Tuck your elbows in and brace against your body for stability.
Use your left hand under the lens to control movement.
Lean against trees, rocks, or kneel down to reduce camera shake.
Often the safari vehicle provides a perfect shooting support, but turn off the engine to avoid vibrations.

Download My Complete Wildlife Photography Guide for Beginners

If you’re just getting started with wildlife photography, you probably have a million questions. I remember struggling with all of these things when I first picked up my camera and I know it can feel overwhelming. That’s exactly why I put together my Complete Wildlife Photography Guide for Beginners—a 100-page resource designed to give you clear, actionable advice so you can start capturing stunning wildlife images right away.

Ready to take your wildlife photography to the next level? Sign up now and grab your free copy!

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Join One of My Workshops – The Best Way to Learn Photography

There’s only so much you can learn from blog articles and YouTube videos. Trust me, I tried. But the real game-changer? Hands-on experience in the field. There’s no substitute for being out in nature, camera in hand, with an experienced mentor guiding you through the challenges of wildlife photography in real time. That’s why my in-person photography workshops are designed to give you practical experience in breathtaking locations where you’ll refine your skills, get immediate feedback, and capture portfolio-worthy shots.

I run workshops in some of the world’s most stunning wildlife destinations, from Namibia and Botswana to Patagonia and the Italian Alps. These aren’t just tours; they’re immersive learning experiences designed to push your skills to the next level.

If you’re serious about improving your wildlife photography, join one of my workshops. It might just be the best investment you ever make in your photography journey.

explore my upcoming trips and workshops

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Paolo Sartori 12/12/24 Paolo Sartori 12/12/24

Ultimate Photography Guide to Etosha National Park

Etosha National Park is one of Africa's premier wildlife destinations and a paradise for photographers. It’s unique landscape and environment create unique challenges for the photographer, but once I learnt how to approach it it became one of my favorite destinations in the world for wildlife.

Located in northern Namibia, this iconic park spans over 22,000 square kilometers and is centered around the vast, shimmering Etosha Pan. While you can forget about photographing all the big 5 - there is no buffalos in the park - the vast plains and abundant populations of elephants, lions and rhinos will provide you all the ingredients for amazing photos.

Elephant heard heading to a waterhole near Namutoni camp, Etosha

Exploring Etosha: Inside the Park

Inside the Etosha there are five main camps, each offering unique advantages for exploring the park’s diverse habitats and wildlife. These camps offer the best access as you can be out in the park as soon as the gates open in the morning, while if you stay out of the park you will need to go though the park receptions every time.

1. Dolomite Camp

Located in the western section of Etosha, Dolomite Camp is the only accommodation in this remote area, which is less crowded than the rest of the park. Its elevated position provides stunning panoramic views, and the area is rich in wildlife like black rhinos, lions, and Hartmann's mountain zebras. However, in my experience wildlife on this side of the park tend to be a bit more sparse and the ticker vegetation makes it more difficult to get clean photos.

2. Olifantsrus Camp

This eco-friendly camp is perfect for budget-conscious travelers and features a unique elevated hide overlooking a waterhole, making it ideal for photographers wanting close-up shots of elephants, giraffes, and other wildlife. While the elevated hide is perfect for wildlife watching, the elevated perspective is not the best for photography. There is also a lower-level hide with windows, that would provide a great option but the windows are always so dirty that it’s impossible to photograph through them. Also note that there are no rooms here so the accommodation is only suitable for campers, roof tents or ground tents.

Herds of elephants are moving across the whole park. Here is one at sunset at Olifantsrus Camp.

3. Okaukuejo Camp

The most popular camp in Etosha, Okaukejo provides the best facilities you’ll find in the park. Thanks to its floodlit waterhole, after dark, you can get incredible sightings of rhinos, lions, and elephants gathering around the waterhole. The area surrounding the camp is very rich in wildlife, but it’s very vast. I suggest booking one of the morning game drives, that are allowed to leave the camp before sunrise. This is your best chance to find a lion before the sun comes, so that you are ready to photograph it with the first light of the day.

All of that being said, Okaukejo is also the busiest camp in Etosha and in peak season can be incredibly crowded. Make sure you book well in advance as it fulls up months or even years in advance.

Wildebeest at sunrise in the Okaukejo area

4. Halali Camp

My favorite camp in Etosha, the place where I had some of the most amazing encounters. In this area I’ve seen everything, from big lion prides to leopards, rhinos and even some cheetah hunts. Centrally located, Halali offers access to some of the park's best waterholes, like Goas and Rietfontein. The camp itself has a waterhole that attracts a variety of animals, with a high point of view that makes you feel like there with the wildlife. Halali facilities are not in the best conditions and some heaving maintenance and renovations are required.

Etosha also host abundant birds populations. Here is an egyptian goose I photographed at Goas, near Halali

5. Namutoni Camp

Situated in the east, Namutoni is known for its historical fort and proximity to key waterholes like Klein Namutoni and Chudop. This side of the park might be the absolute best for photography, thanks to less vegetation and more open fields. Like in the other camps, if you can get on the morning guided game drive to increase your chances of success.

Open areas around Namutoni provide amazing wildlife photo opportunities

Lodges Outside Etosha

While the camps within the park offer the best accessibility, they come with some compromise on comfort and experience; being all managed by NWR, all the facilities and services inside the park are rather expensive while the quality is very low. For those seeking more luxurious or private accommodations, the lodges outside the park are excellent options:

King Nehale Lodge: Located near the King Nehale Gate, in the north.east of the park, this lodge offers modern amenities and easy access to the park's northern areas. Guests also have access to a private water hole with hide where it’s possible to spend the afternoon waiting for rhinos and lions to came by.
Onguma Game Reserve: Adjacent to the Von Lindequist Gate, Onguma features several luxury lodges and hides for photographers looking for high-end comfort and unique perspectives.
Etosha Village: Situated near the Anderson Gate, this lodge combines convenience with a touch of luxury.

What camera gear should you bring to Etosha?

Compared to other safari destinations, Etosha’s wide open plains require a bit more reach than usual. I would recommend a minimum of 500mm, or even more if possible. There is a lot of light here; you must be back at camp before sunset and you can only leave after sunrise, so don’t worry too much on having a super fast prime lens. Something like a 100-500mm or a 200-600mm are perfect.

If you can, bring a camera with a telephoto in the 100-500 range and a second camera with a 600mm, maybe with a teleconverter. This way you can always get a wider shot with the zoom lens, then switch to your longer prime to get intimate portraits.

Remember to bring some extra batteries and all you need to keep your camera and lenses clean from all the dust that’s constantly floating in the air in the park. You won’t need a tripod as you will be mainly shooting from vehicles.

You need some long telephoto lenses for a safari to Etosha

Clothing and Extra Gear to Bring

Etosha's climate can be extreme, so pack accordingly:

Clothing: Light, breathable fabrics for the day, warm layers for early mornings and evenings (it gets quite chilly in the morning drives so always get a warm jacket). Make sure you use neutral colors to blend into the environment; avoid white or very bright colors.
Hat and sunglasses: A wide brimmed hat and some good sunglasses are essential for sun protection.
Binoculars: Some good binoculars will help a lot when it comes to spotting distant wildlife.
Sunscreen and insect repellent: Both are vital for a comfortable safari experience.
Water bottle: You will need a lot of water during the hot days in Etosha. Make sure you get a personal, reusable water bottle, and buy a few 5L water tanks. Budget at least 3 liters per person per day.

Wildlife in Etosha

Etosha National Park is home to an incredible variety of mammals, offering photographers a chance to capture iconic species in their natural habitat. Here's a closer look at some of the most remarkable mammals you can encounter.

Elephants

Etosha has a very big elephant population. These gentle giants can often be found at waterholes, providing dramatic photo opportunities as they bathe, drink, or interact with each other, or in big herds crossing the plains an grasslands. Their dust-bathing rituals at sunset create mesmerizing silhouettes against the golden light.

Lions

With a population of around 400 individuals, lions are frequently spotted throughout the park, particularly near waterholes during the dry season. Their behavior—whether hunting, resting in the shade, or socializing in prides—offers endless moments to capture powerful and intimate scenes.

Rhinos

Etosha is a stronghold for both black and white rhinos, making it one of the best places in Africa to photograph these critically endangered species. Black rhinos are more common and can be seen at night around floodlit waterholes, while white rhinos are occasionally spotted in the park’s southern regions.

Leopards

On of the most difficult species to be spotter in Etosha, Leopards are elusive and require patience to photograph, but the reward is worth it. Look for them lounging in trees or near densely vegetated waterholes. Their striking patterns and piercing eyes make for breathtaking portraits.

Cheetahs

Etosha’s open plains are ideal habitats for cheetahs, the world’s fastest land animals. They are often seen scanning the savanna from termite mounds or resting in the shade after a hunt. Capturing a cheetah mid-sprint requires planning and lot of patience, plus a fast shutter speed, making it a difficult challenge for any wildlife photographer.

Giraffes

Giraffes grace the landscape with their elegance, often creating iconic silhouettes against the horizon. Their interactions, whether drinking at waterholes or engaging in "necking" battles, offer unique opportunities to photograph their behavior and long, graceful forms.

Sometimes wildlife gets so close that we can experiment with different types of photography, like here with a giraffe

Zebras

Etosha is home to two zebra species: Burchell’s zebra and the rarer Hartmann’s mountain zebra. These strikingly patterned animals can often be found in large herds, making for dynamic compositions. The contrast between their black-and-white stripes and the dusty terrain is a classic safari image.

Springbok and Other Antelope

Springbok are one of the most abundant animals in Etosha, famous for their graceful leaps known as "pronking." Other antelope species, like kudu, oryx, and black-faced impalas, are also common and provide a wide range of photographic subjects, from close-ups to action shots.

Wildebeest

Often found grazing in the open plains, wildebeest are great subjects for photographing group dynamics. During the dry season, they gather in large herds at waterholes, creating exciting opportunities for dramatic and action-packed shots.

Best Season for Safari in Etosha

The best time to visit Etosha depends on your photography goals:

Dry Season (May to October): Animals congregate around waterholes, making it easier to spot and photograph wildlife. The dry, dusty atmosphere creates dramatic lighting conditions.
Green Season (November to April): The park is lush and vibrant, with spectacular bird migrations and newborn animals. However the water during this season is abundant so wildlife doesn’t need to come to the waterholes, and abundant vegetation helps animals to hide from our cameras.

While you can get good sightings from May to October-November, in my opinion the best season for wildlife photography in Etosha is towards the end of the dry season, in the months of September and October.

How Long Should You Stay?

Short answer: as long as you can! For a fulfilling safari experience, at least two full days in Etosha is recommended. However, to truly explore the park and maximize your photography opportunities, plan for 5 days or more. Wildlife enthusiasts might even extend their stay; that’s the magic of safari, every day, every game drive is different, and the more time we spend in the park, the better chances we have to get amazing photos.

Join Me in Etosha in 2025

I’m thrilled to announce that I’m organizing two exclusive photography tours to Namibia in 2025, both including Etosha National Park. These trips are designed to provide unparalleled photography experiences, guided by the expertise and knowledge I accumulated in over 20 trips to Namibia. Check out my tour calendar here, and don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter to get early bird discounts.

Etosha National Park is a haven for photographers, offering endless opportunities to capture Africa’s beauty. With the right preparation and a spirit of adventure, your trip will be nothing short of extraordinary. See you in Etosha!

Sunset sky at the end of the dry season. The first clouds are showing up and will soon start to rain.

How Long Should You Stay?

Join Me in Etosha in 2025

I’m thrilled to announce that I’m organizing two exclusive photography tours to Namibia in 2025, both including Etosha National Park. These trips are designed to provide unparalleled photography experiences, guided by the expertise and knowledge I accumulated in over 20 trips to Namibia. Check out my tour calendar here, and don’t forget to sign up to my newsletter to get early bird discounts.

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The Ultimate Photography Guide to Namibia

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Paolo Sartori 11/29/24 Paolo Sartori 11/29/24

The Ultimate Photography Guide to Namibia

Namibia is a dream destination for photographers and the country I visited the most in recent years. With its dramatic desert landscapes, diverse wildlife, and striking contrasts, this African gem offers an unparalleled canvas for creative expression. Even after my 20+ trips to Namibia I am still amazed every time by those vast and wild lands. Whether you’re shooting wildlife, landscapes, or night skies, this guide will help you plan the perfect photographic journey.

two lion males at sunrise in Etosha National Park, Namibia

GETTING AROUND in NAMIBIA

Exploring Namibia is as much about the journey as it is about the destination. With its vast, rugged landscapes and long stretches of remote terrain, how you choose to travel can greatly shape your experience. Here’s what you need to know to decide the best way to traverse this incredible country.

4x4 self drive tour in fish river canyon namibia

Self-Driving in Namibia

It’s definitely possible to self-drive Namibia. In fact, I’ve done this on most of my trips. While the freedom that comes with this choice is unmatched, it’s not for the faint of heart.

Pros:
- Complete independence to stop for photos and explore off-the-beaten-path locations.
- You can explore the country at your own pace.
Cons:
- Namibia’s roads are mostly unpaved, with gravel, sand, and deep ruts being common.
- a great 4x4 experience is crucial, as conditions can be challenging and being in remote locations you need a certain degree of self-sufficiency. A rescue caused by a car breakdown can take several days and can be very expensive.
- Long driving times between destinations require stamina and careful planning.
Tips:
- Opt for a well-equipped 4x4 with spare tires and recovery gear. ASCO car hire is my company of choice.
- Stay on the main roads, unless you have a lot of experience in 4x4 driving and navigating unknown terrain.
- Plan fuel stops carefully, as stations can be sparse.

driving from sossusvlei to swakopmund namibia

Charter Flights

For those with limited time, charter flights offer a fast and efficient way to cover large distances. While undeniably convenient, this option comes at a premium.

Pros:
- Aerial views of Namibia’s breathtaking landscapes, including the dunes and coastlines.
- Saves significant travel time, allowing you to maximize time at destinations.
Cons:
- Very expensive, making it inaccessible for budget travelers.
- Misses the incredible experience of driving through the vast landscapes.

Guided Tours

Joining a guided tour is an excellent choice for those who want a stress-free experience with expert knowledge without missing on the adventure feeling of overlanding.

Pros:
- Professional guides handle navigation, driving, and logistics, allowing you to focus on photography and exploration.
- Includes safari game drives and park entrance permits
- Access to hidden gems and insights into the culture and wildlife.
- Safety and convenience, especially for first-time visitors or those uncomfortable with self-driving.
Cons:
- Can be more expensive than self-driving but often includes accommodations and meals.

Going on a guided tour in Namibia is definitely the best option, especially if you travel there for the first time. The safari guides are outstanding and they have heavy levels of expertise and understanding on the wildlife and nature of the region. You will learn a lot and get great photos.

The company that I recommend is Explore Namibia.

Better yet, you can join one of my photography tours in Namibia. I currently have open dates for 2025 and 2026.

BEST PHOTOGRAPHY LOCATIONS IN NAMIBIA

1. Sossusvlei and Deadvlei

The heart of the Namib Desert, Sossusvlei, is famous for its mighty red dunes and stark, otherworldly landscapes. Deadvlei, a clay pan surrounded by dunes, features 700 years old petrified trees that stand in haunting contrast to the dry, cracked ground.

What Makes It Special: The colors here are surreal. As the sun rises, the dunes glow in fiery shades of orange and red, while the dead trees in Deadvlei create dramatic silhouettes against the white pan.
Where to stay:
- NWR Sossus Dune lodge
- NWR Sossusvlei camp (camping only)

Make sure you book well in advance as accommodation is often fully booked months or even years in advance.

Key Shots:
- Capture the curving lines of Dune 45 or Big Daddy in early morning light.
- Deadvlei’s iconic trees work wonderfully for minimalist compositions.
- Use a telephoto lens to isolate textures and abstract patterns in the dunes.
Challenges: The desert heat can be intense, so plan to shoot early in the morning or late in the afternoon. Bring plenty of water and sunscreen.
Pro Tip: Make sure you overnight in Sesriem inside the park gates to get early access to the park before the crowds arrive.

2. Etosha National Park

One of Africa’s premier wildlife destinations and one of the oldest parks, Etosha National Park offers the opportunity to capture some of the most iconic species in their natural habitat. The park’s name means “Great White Place,” referring to the massive salt pan that dominates its center.

What Makes It Special: Wildlife congregates around the waterholes, making it easier to spot and photograph multiple species in one location. The stark, white landscape provides a unique backdrop.
Where to stay:
- Okaukejo: the first stop for most people after entering the park from Andersson gate. A very good place to start, but also the most crowded camp in Etosha.
- Namutoni: close to Von Lindequist Gate gate, this camp is also quite busy, but usually a bit less than Okaukejo. In my experience I find that this area of Etosha provides some of the best opportunities for photographers.
- Olifanstrus Camp: one of the most remote camps in Eothsa, only suitable if you’re equipped with roof tent or ground tent.

Make sure you book well in advance as accommodation is often fully booked months or even years in advance.

Key Shots:
- Lions or elephants framed against the shimmering salt pan.
- Giraffes bending to drink, creating dynamic and unusual poses.
- Night photography of floodlit waterholes at camps like Okaukuejo.
Challenges: Animals can be elusive, so patience and understanding of wildlife behaviour is essential. Park rules are also quite strict and it’s not allowed to get out of the vehicle at any time.
Pro Tip: Make sure you have a lens that is at least 300mm; if you can get to 600mm that’s even better. Offroad driving is not allowed within the park so sometimes you will not be able to get too close to the animals.

elephants in etosha national park namibia

3. Damaraland

Damaraland is a rugged and remote region offering dramatic landscapes, ancient history, and unique wildlife. It’s known for its rocky mountains, vast plains, and rare desert-adapted elephants and rhinos. In this region we can find some of the biggest populations of free roaming elephants, rhinos and lions outside of National Parks.

What Makes It Special: the incredible remoteness of the area and the elusive free roaming wildlife makes Damaraland an incredible and unique photography destination.
Key Shots:
- Desert elephants and black rhinos framed against arid landscapes.
- Ancient rock engravings at Twyfelfontein.
- Sunset light illuminating the incredible landscape.
Challenges: Wildlife is harder to spot than in Etosha, and the remoteness and rugged terrain requires advanced 4x4 skills.

Pro Tip: Damaraland is a unique experience not only for photography, but for the adventure that comes with visiting such a remote place.

desert adapted elephants in damaraland namibia

4. Kolmanskop

Kolmanskop is a ghost town near Lüderitz, once a bustling diamond mining settlement during Namibia's early 20th-century diamond rush. Abandoned in the 1950s, the town has been gradually reclaimed by the desert, creating an eerie yet fascinating destination for photographers.

What Makes It Special: Kolmanskop was built in the German colonial style, complete with lavish homes, a ballroom, a hospital and even the first X-ray machine in southern Africa. Now its sand-filled interiors and crumbling facades tell the story of its rise and fall, offering hauntingly beautiful photographic opportunities.
Key Shots:
- Sand-filled interiors of houses, illuminated by soft light streaming through broken windows.
- The grand remains of structures like the ballroom and hospital.
- Close-ups of weathered details, such as peeling wallpaper and sand-dusted staircases.
Challenges: Midday light can be harsh, and shifting sands can obscure or reveal details unexpectedly.
Pro Tip: Arrive early in the morning for the best light and fewer visitors, and make sure you get a full day photography permit. Take time to explore different buildings to uncover unique compositions. Bring a tripod for low-light conditions inside the structures.

5. Spitzkoppe

Spitzkoppe, often called the "Matterhorn of Namibia," is a striking granite mountain rising dramatically from the flat Namibian desert. Formed over 120 million years ago, it holds both geological and cultural significance, with ancient San rock art scattered throughout the area.

What Makes It Special: The natural arches, rock formations, and golden hues of the granite make it a dream location for landscape and astrophotographers. Its isolation and clear skies offer some of the best stargazing in Namibia.
Key Shots:
- The iconic Spitzkoppe Arch, framing the main peak, especially at sunrise or sunset.
- Close-ups of San rock art, showcasing ancient human history.
- Wide-angle shots of the rock formations.
Challenges: The terrain is rugged, and access requires some hiking. Nights can be cold and the area is remote, so preparation is essential.
Pro Tip: Scout locations during the day for compositions, and stay overnight to capture both golden hour and the night sky. Use a sturdy tripod for long exposures in low light.

6. Swakopmund

The Swakopmund area, situated along Namibia's Atlantic coast, offers a diverse range of photography opportunities. From vast sand dunes to vibrant birdlife and unique coastal landscapes, this region is a must-visit for photographers.

What Makes It Special: The dunes between Swakopmund and Walvis Bay are a good sunset location; Walvis Bay’s lagoon is home to thousands of flamingos, while the dramatic meeting of dunes and ocean at Sandwich Harbour creates unforgettable compositions.
Key Shots:
- The towering dunes at sunrise or sunset, emphasizing textures and shadows.
- Flamingos wading in the shallow waters of Walvis Bay’s lagoon, perfect for capturing reflections.
- The surreal contrast of ocean waves meeting desert dunes at Sandwich Harbour.
Challenges: Coastal fog can limit visibility, and access to Sandwich Harbour requires a guided 4x4 tour due to the challenging terrain.
Pro Tip: For flamingos, bring a telephoto lens to capture details without disturbing the birds.

7. Zambezi Region

The Zambezi Region (formerly known as the Caprivi Strip) offer a lush, water-rich contrast to Namibia’s arid landscapes. With dense vegetation, winding rivers, and abundant wildlife, this area provides incredible opportunities for photographers.

What Makes It Special: The region’s network of rivers—Zambezi, Chobe, Kwando, and Linyanti—attracts large concentrations of wildlife, including elephants, hippos, and crocodiles. Part of the region borders Chobe National Park, offering cheaper game-viewing experiences compared to the busier Botswana side while keeping the same level of wildlife viewing.
Key Shots:
- Elephants crossing rivers or bathing along the Chobe Riverbanks, often during golden hour.
- Birds in flight, such as African fish eagles or malachite kingfishers, along the waterways.
- Dramatic landscapes with rivers winding through green floodplains, especially during the rainy season.
Challenges: Dense vegetation can obstruct views, and humidity in the wet season may pose challenges for your equipment.
Pro Tip: Take a boat tour along the Chobe River for unique low-angle shots of wildlife and stunning reflections. Use a long lens for wildlife and a wide-angle lens to capture the expansive landscapes.

8. Fish River Canyon

The Fish River Canyon is one of the largest canyons in the world, stretching over 160 km in length and up to 27 km in width. This immense geological feature is a must-see for photographers seeking dramatic, wide-open landscapes.

What Makes It Special: The canyon’s rugged cliffs, deep gorges, and dramatic colors provide endless opportunities for panoramic shots, especially at sunrise and sunset when the light highlights the textures of the rock formations.
Key Shots:
- The sweeping vistas of the canyon from viewpoints like the Fish River Canyon Viewpoint.
- Close-ups of geological details in the canyon walls and surrounding terrain.
- Sunset shots, with the golden light casting long shadows over the canyon floor.
Challenges: While the canyon provides breathtaking landscapes, it is unusually difficult to capture the grandness of it in photograph, making it a very difficult location for photography.
Pro Tip: Bring a tripod for panoramic shots and use a polarizing filter to reduce glare and bring out the colors in the canyon.

9. Quiver Tree Forest

The Quiver Tree Forest, located near Keetmanshoop, is a striking landscape filled with ancient, otherworldly trees. These unique trees, also known as Aloe dichotoma, are a highlight for photographers looking for unusual, sculptural subjects against a dramatic backdrop.

What Makes It Special: The twisted, spindly quiver trees create surreal compositions, particularly at sunset or sunrise when the light casts long shadows and highlights the trees’ unique shapes. The area is also home to dolerite formations that add to the dramatic scenery.
Key Shots:
- The iconic quiver trees silhouetted against the glowing sky at sunrise or sunset.
- Quiver tree forest is one of the best place to capture the milky way, using the silhouette of the trees as main subejct.
Challenges: The area is on private ground so make sure you have all the permits required.
Pro Tip: For star photography, the Quiver Tree Forest is an excellent spot to capture the Milky Way rising behind the trees—use a wide-angle lens and long exposure for stunning results.

Essential Camera Gear for Namibia

Camera gear is a very personal choice and there is not an “all in one” perfect solution. Everything has pros and cons and the perfect gear can vary a lot depending on our specific goals and how serious we are about photography as main reason of the trip versus photography only being a way to document our trip.

That being said, Namibia offer both incredible landscape and wildlife photo opportunities and this is my ideal camera gear for a trip to Namibia.

For camera lenses, I’d bring at least 3 lenses. You’ll likely want a wide angle lens like the Canon 15-35mm to get those big open views and as a general reportage lens. The second lens you want to bring is a good telephoto zoom, something like a 100-500mm or, even better, a 200-600mm. This will be your main lens in most situations, not only with wildlife where the flexibility of a zoom is key, but also with the vast desert landscapes where I consistently use telephoto lenses to compress the wide landscapes. The last lens depends more in your main focus. If you are serious in astrophotography you might want a wide angle prime lens, like a 14mm f1.4, to make the most of the incredible milky way opportunities. If you are focusing more on wildlife you’ll likely want something like a 400 or 600mm prime.

When shooting from a vehicle, handheld gets you better flexibility to take good photos with wildlife, so there’s no need for a big tripod for your giant telephoto. However, you will want a good tripod for your landscape images, so get something stable enough to shoot even in the frequent strong wind you will find in the desert.

If you have a polarizer bring it as it makes an incredible difference when shooting in the red dunes of Sossusvlei.

Remember to bring some camera cleaning gear; Namibia is generally super dusty and you will need to clean your cameras and lenses on a daily basis.

A photographers itinerary for Namibia

Namibia is an incredibly big and divers country full of hidden gems and to properly visit all of them you would need 2 months. To make sure you visit all the best location you still need 12 to 14 days.

A first, shorter option: starting in Windhoek you can drive straight to Sossusvlei, spending a couple nights there. You can then drive north to Swakopmund (don’t miss a stop in Solitaire to refuel and try the famous apple pie). After a couple night in Swakop you can drive a couple hours for an overnight in Spitzkoppe and then proceed north to spend 3 to 5 days in Etosha before heading back to Windhoek.

If you want to see more, after arriving in Windhoek you can head South to Keetmahsoop and the Quiver Tree Forest, then proceed to Luderitz and Kolmanskop. From there you can drive back North to Sossusvlei and from there you can follow the first itinerary.

Camera safety

In all my trips in Namibia I always felt quite safe and never had any issues. That said, there is theft everywhere. So don’t be silly with your camera gear and just leave it unattended. Keep valuables out of sight in your vehicles and hotels rooms, and follow the common sense.

My Namibia photography trip

If you’re a photographer and you haven’t been to Namibia, the best way to see it is by joining a photography tour. I have travelled multiple times to every corner of Namibia and while I like getting lost for days in the most remote regions, I know most people won’t have the luxury of spending several weeks at the time exploring the country.

For this reason I put together an itinerary designed to give you the best out of your time spent in Namibia, making sure you will always be in the right place at the right time to witness and capture moments you will treasure for a lifetime.

I have currently openings for tours in 2025 and 2026; if you want to stay updated on my other photography workshops and trips, get early access and special rates you can register in the priority list here.